From The Archives....  Media descends on Cher as she arrives for Kat Kramer's "Film That Change The World Series" featuring "Elephants and Man A Litany of Tragedy".  That's me in the recent self portrait above.  I enjoy taking pictures and being photographed too....    HH(:



MPB Jeans Sew-Along -- Down Under's Own DON!

Friends, I never know what to make of Australians.  They look like you and me -- well, OK, they're sexier -- and I can usually understand what they're saying, but they seem to exist in a parallel universe.  It has something to do with being on the wrong side of the planet I think.  They're....different.
Now, I am considered by many to be the Doris Day of sewing bloggers: wholesome and sunny with a latent streak of hysteria.  But there are darker forces lurking in the blogosphere, readers, and some of them make their own jeans.  Meet Don Pezzano!

If you don't already know Australian enfant terrible Don from his popular blog, Urbandon, you're in for a treat -- and some Jeans Sew-Along inspiration!  Don is an awesomely creative sewist (and so much more) who will try anything.

Have a look:

If Thursday's interview with sweet Taylor made your teeth ache, I invite you to taste the bitter pungency of Don Pezzano.

Take it away, Don!

*****

PL: Don, how long have you been sewing pants/jeans? 

DP: What's the time now?  (LOL)  Seriously, I have only made a handful of pants and only just finished my second pair of jeans. But that second pair fit me like a dream, have all the details I like and are made to last.

PL: How do you define your style and where do you find your inspiration?

DP: Deconstructed Gothic. Slouchy, asymmetrical with a strict color pallet of black, gunmetal and blue. I get a lot of inspiration from movies that have worked hard on costume: The Fifth Element, 3:10 To Yuma and The Brothers Bloom being good examples. I also love turn-of-the-century abstract art like Georges Braque and Gothic Revival architecture.

PL:  Do you draft your own pattern when you sew jeans, or do you use a commercial pattern?  If so, which one?

DP: My first jeans I used the Burda 3406 pattern, but the fit was all wrong. Although there is an 80's revival going on, it's not the look I am after. I like a straight leg with a low rise.  Using my tailored pants block as a base, I drafted my own. Before I even started I knew that they were going to fit me perfectly. There were so many details that were different or extra compared to a commercial pattern, that it was just practical to start from scratch. I find half the fun of sewing is drafting patterns. 

PL: What's the hardest part about sewing jeans, in your opinion?   

DP: Making the fronts sit correctly. Jeans or pants are going to look daggy if they don't sit right at the front.  The fly shouldn't be bulky or bulging, and for guy's jeans make sure there is ample room in the crotch -- unless you want that 70's look!

PL: Where do you find your jeans supplies -- denim, rivets, jeans buttons, etc?

DP: Here in Sydney there is The Remnant Warehouse and they have everything. The average chain store just isn't going to have the right supplies.  Go to a quality fabric retailer.   Flimsy, lightweight denim or regular buttons really won't cut it. I bought a variety of of rivets on eBay to try out, but the quality seems variable. Buying fabric online is tough because you really don't know what you are going to get. 

PL: Anything else you want to add about sewing/designing jeans?

DP: Good denim jeans should last many years. If you consider that fact with every step you take, with every seam you sew and every button you put on, you will create an amazing pair of jeans!  Skimp on denim or details and you will get an average pair of jeans. 

Look at your favorite jeans (mine are G-Star). What makes them so special?  The fit?  The denim? The details?  Strive to replicate them.

Zips can be a curse. Go with a button fly. Not only will buttons last longer and look better, they are easier to put in.   Sew slowly.Sewing through 3-4 layers of denim should be done slowly.  My first pair of jeans I snapped two needles. My second pair I didn't snap one because I took it slowly.

PL: Thanks for the great insights, Don!

DP: Thanks, Peter! 

*****

Friends, if you haven't already checked out Don's BurdaStyle studio, please do.  Don is also a steampunk-inspired jewelry maker (this has nothing to do with Punky Brewster, I have learned) and his work -- jewelry, assemblage art, and minimalist handbags -- is available in his Etsy Store.   Don ships internationally too!

What do think, guys -- awesome or what?!!

Happy Saturday, everybody; see you on Monday!

Loved the gown, Kate!

We like to stay up to the minute here at MPB, so I must opine on the dress: it's beautiful.  But then again, I'm a sucker for a lace overlay!

Which provides the perfect segue into the book I just received the other day, Susan Khalje's classic, Bridal Couture.


I'd first heard about Susan Khalje and Bridal Couture from Robin, who attended Susan's week-long Couture Sewing School in March.  Kind Robin even offered to lend me her copy of Bridal Couture, but friends, I like to know I can take a book into the bathtub with me and not worry.  Not that I would ever take my copy into the tub, given that I paid about three times the original price (the book is sadly out of print though a CD copy is available on Susan's website). Since used print copies can go for well over $100 these days, I'm OK with the $79 I paid (a birthday present to myself).  Still, for me, that's a sewing machine. 

I'm going to be honest here: when I opened my mailbox to find the book folded inside and realized this was a softcover book, and not a particularly thick one at that, my heart sank.  Then I opened the book.  Friends, I love Bridal Couture -- and I'm not even getting married any time soon! 







Bridal Couture is so clearly written, so well organized, so beautifully illustrated -- it's a must for anyone interested in sewing evening wear, and not just wedding gowns, though that's obviously its primary focus.

Would I have preferred if it had been a how-to guide to recreating Rita Hayworth's wardrobe from You Were Never Lovelier?  Absolutely!  But I don't think the techniques are dramatically different.

It pains me when something so worthwhile is currently so expensive, though again, a CD copy can be had for much less.  I've posted more pics from Bridal Couture here and am even thinking of attending Susan's next workshop in Baltimore in the fall, though I'm not sure what I'd make.  Something to think about...

I have more great news, patient readers -- my Featherweight is working at last!



You may recall that after I replaced the missing loop guard screw, Rain discovered that the original hook had tiny burrs that were snagging the thread, burrs he lacked the tools to remove.  Fortunately I was able to find a full hook assembly for sale on eBay for what seemed like a reasonable amount ($38 with shipping) given the original cost of the machine (about $225 with shipping).  This meant the whole loop guard screw replacement drama was totally unnecessary, of course, but that's life.

In addition to my original damaged hook, Rain had taken my bobbin case and bobbin back home with him to test and clean, so to make the machine work I needed to pick these up and it didn't seem fair to make Rain come to my place yet again.  I also wanted Rain to install the hook assembly.

Now I know you're curious -- I was -- so I will share that Rain lives in a huge, semi-industrial space (whose location I cannot reveal) bursting with vintage Singer sewing machines in various stages of restoration -- mainly 221's (Featherweights), 201's, and assorted 15 models.  There must have been five different workstations set up for him to work on his machines.  I even got to revisit my 15-90, which Rain has already converted to a hand crank. This guy is something else.

Anyway, the Featherweight now stitches beautifully; I still have to polish her up a bit.





Like Bridal Couture, this is another item that consistently receives raves so effusive, it almost made me not want to like it.  But I do, and I totally get why so many people collect Featherweights with a passion.

Finally, readers, even more good news!

After I-don't-even-remember-how-many months, I finally emptied the cat litter out of my stinky vintage American Tourister luggage set (not including the cosmetic case, which still needs help) and vacuumed the insides.



I let them air out on the balcony for a few more days and I can say that 90% of the smell is gone.  I made lavender sachets to tuck inside and am now using the luggage to store fabric as well as some of Cathy's endless accessories. 





Don't you love a happy ending?

Speaking of Cathy, I should also tell you that my poor cousin was unable to attend the show and party last night (for which I originally was going to make her another taffeta cocktail dress) and I went in her place.  Cathy had been looking forward to it and was going to wear her Twenties flapper dress, but pooped out at the last minute.  It's just as well: we could take the subway (Cathy insists on cabs) and save ourselves some cash.

Friends, that's it!  Believe me when I tell you that the only royal wedding I care about is the MGM one with Fred Astaire and Jane Powell (and even that's a bit of a yawn), but you have to admit, a lace overlay gown is tops.

I'd love to get your initial impressions.  How do you think it compares to this?

Maybe it's the times but, lovely as it is, Kate's dress is rather sober-looking in comparison to Diana's.   Thoughts?

Happy Friday, everybody!

MPB Jeans Sew-Along -- EMERGENCY UPSTART, I MEAN UPDATE

Friends, with just four days to go before the start of the MPB Jeans Sew-Along, I wanted to answer some basic questions about jeans and jeans supplies.

Actually, I wanted someone to answer my questions and so I decided to go straight to that jeans-sewing wunderkind, Taylor Hackbarth of Taylor Tailor...or is it Tailor Taylor -- I can never remember.

I stumbled upon Tennessean Taylor's blog months ago while searching for a photo of the late Dame Elizabeth, added him to my blog list impulsively, and now can't figure out how to get him off.  No worries, Taylor is a marvelous source of jeans-related information -- the kind of thing I could have figured out, but...well...no point reinventing the wheel!

I invited Taylor to share some of his expertise here at MPB at the very moment -- talk about synchronicity! -- Taylor was in the process of creating...  Friends, you'll have to read the interview to find out, but simply put: If you're looking for a great one-stop source for high-quality, basic jeans supplies, Taylor's your man!

I think you'll agree that Taylor is a true connoisseur.  Young, smart, with an obsessive eye for detail and a passion for authenticity, Taylor is easy to resent admire.  I do.

Take it away, Taylor!

(BTW, all photos below are Taylor's projects)

 *****

PL: Taylor, how did you get interested in sewing and more specifically, sewing denim jeans?

TH: One day I just decided that I wanted to learn a new skill, something useful that was completely new to me and out of my comfort zone. I needed a challenge and wanted to do something constructive with my free time.

I have always had a DIY approach to a lot of things and an interest in menswear, but hadn’t put the two together before. Also, I am pretty picky when it comes to my clothes, but at the same time, didn’t want to spend (or have) the money to get the quality I wanted. Learning to make my own seemed like the perfect solution.

I had a bit of a head start, as my wife has always had (and knew how to use!) a sewing machine. This made it easy for me to dive right in. Initially I thought I would make a wool suit as my first project. Keep in mind, I didn’t even know what a bobbin was at this point!  My wife gently reminded me that I wasn't even remotely ready for this and handed me a pattern for a simple apron. The apron didn’t take me long, and I was on to shirts and pants and learning how to draft my own patterns in no time.

I never even thought twice about the denim I was wearing until I saw this video.   Jesse and Adam of Put This On do amazing work. While the video doesn’t have much to do with DIY jeans, it inspired me to started reading more about denim and its history. I was hooked.

Since I spend most of my waking hours in denim, I figured, why shouldn’t the jeans I am wearing be absolutely perfect? And since I couldn’t exactly justify dropping $300+ on a pair of jeans, why couldn’t I make myself a custom pair? And so I did. 

PL: Taylor, what are a few of the elements necessary for great jeans (as opposed to mediocre jeans) in your opinion?

TH: This may seem obvious, but I think one of the most important elements is fit. I am still perfecting my pattern and probably always will be. Finding and modifying a pattern so that it fits your body the way you want it to is not easy, but the result is well worth the effort. Also, and again probably obvious, is choosing quality materials, from the fabric to the thread. The easiest thing that you can do to make your jeans look more professional is to use a heavy top-stitching thread anywhere you are sewing on the right side of the fabric.

I also like to flat-fell my in-seams, yokes, and center back/crotch seam. This isn't absolutely necessary, and don't get me wrong, I love my serger, but I think the felled seams are a nice detail if you want to go from mediocre to a more professional-looking jean.

Lastly, I like really simple, classic looking jeans. My personal preference is to stick with the classic five pocket, straight leg jean. I don’t really include much decorative stitching, or any extra pockets. Keep it simple, with a great attention to detail (it helps to be a perfectionist), and you’ll be fine.

PL: Isn't denim denim (i.e, what the different between one and another)?

TH: I am by no means a textile expert, but I suppose that from a purely functional standpoint, a lot of denim is the same. The main differences, of course, are the color and the material, and a lot of that is preference; for example, whether or not there is any stretch built into the fabric by using an elastic fiber. I prefer 100% cotton denim for men's jeans and really love the selvedge denim made in the US; but that’s just the purist in me. Others may prefer a lighter wash or a fabric with a bit of stretch in it.

While all fabric has a selvedge (finished edge), with denim the term has a special meaning. Selvedge, or "selvage" denim is woven on old-fashioned, narrow looms which give the denim a great-looking finished edge. Jeans made with this denim will try to preserve this edge, and you can often see it by turning up the cuff. It’s very distinctive in this way. Also, some say the weave is a little tighter than denim woven on more modern looms since the crosswise weft yarn is one continuous piece.

Again, I'm not an expert here, but I use this denim whenever I make jeans; I see it as the cream of the crop when it comes to denim. It's a matter of what you like. I prefer the dark, raw, stiff, unwashed stuff. It may not be the most comfortable denim when you first put it on, but I love it, and I love how over time it molds to your body and the colors fade in a way that is uniquely you.

PL: Where is the best denim made?

TH: Some of the best denim is made right here in the United States. Cone Mills in North Carolina is one of the few denim mills left in the US. While I don't have much experience with denim made elsewhere, I hear that Japanese denim is really nice.  A lot of high end boutique jeans companies use Japanese selvedge denim. I'd love to make a pair of jeans with it some day.

PL: What do you think of button fly vs. zipper fly (is one more authentic than another)?

TH: I prefer a button fly over a zipper fly in part because I think they are more authentic than zippers. Historically speaking, jeans came with button flies.

I have also had zippers that get stuck and it can be difficult to get them working again, which isn't a problem with button flies. Even though there is a protective facing with a zipper, as a matter of principle, I've decided that zipper teeth do not belong anywhere near that region of my body (he he).

That being said, zippers are probably more efficient and easy to use. If the rise on your jeans is very low, you might not have room to space out the buttons for a button fly, so it would be a good idea to use a zipper instead. I’ll probably be using a zipper on the jeans I make for my wife, for example.

PL: Where can I find suitable topstitching thread, jeans buttons, and rivets (and do you need special tools to attach rivets)?

TH: I have spent a lot of time scouring the earth for the best topstitching thread, jeans buttons, rivets, and denim. It was impossible to find everything I needed in one place, let alone in small enough quantities that were practical for making one or two pairs of jeans.

My endless searching got me thinking... there are probably other frustrated jean makers out there, and why couldn’t there be a “one stop shop” for jean-making supplies? I’m actually starting such a website, still in its early stages though functional, and you can see the initial offerings on at Taylor Tailor Supply Shop.

I hope that this little shop will fill a need, and I plan to continue adding products and more resources in the future. In the next week or so I will be adding more styles of denim, plus rivets, buttons, and different colors of thread.  It’ll also be moving to it’s own home once my web designer (ie: my wife) has time to design it.

For now, everything can be purchased through PayPal buttons on my blog. If any one has any questions about the products or would like samples, feel free to get in touch with me here.

Re: rivets -there are special bench presses and dies available for commercial setups, and rivets to go along with them, but if you buy the right kind of rivets, all you really need is a hammer and a hard, stable surface to pound on. They are very easy to install and I hope to eventually put up a useful tutorial with pictures and instructions.

You basically mark the spot you want the rivet, poke a hole, insert the rivet on the wrong side of the fabric, and pound the "nail" part of the rivet into the cap or burr. The burr is what you see on the right side of the fabric, and the rivet is actually the "nail" looking thing that is inserted from the wrong side of the fabric.

PL: How difficult is it to draft your own jeans pattern?  Can you use pieces of a commercial pattern to facilitate things?

TH: I used a great book to help me draft my own jeans pattern, called The Practical Guide To Pattern Drafting for Fashion Designers: Menswear.  I’d say it was more time consuming than anything.

Taking accurate measurements from your body (a two-person job) and taking your time during the drafting process helps a lot. Measure, re-measure, and measure again! If you already have a pattern that fits you reasonably well, you could modify this rather than starting from scratch. Since the only commercial pattern I had when I made my jeans didn't fit me, and I didn't really like the overall shape and fit of the pattern, I elected to start from scratch.

The other thing to consider is using a store bought pair of jeans to help draft your pattern. If you have a pair of jeans that fit you really well, you could use them as a basis for a pattern and then make any necessary modifications. 

PL: Taylor, thanks so much for sharing what you know with us today!

TH: I am thrilled to contribute!

****

Readers, isn't Taylor the best?  If you have any additional questions for Taylor please ask below and perhaps he (or I) can answer them for you.  (I'll be picking his brains in the weeks ahead for sure...little does he know.)

Thanks again, Taylor!

 P.S.  If you haven't already, don't forget to join the Jeans Sew-Along group on Flickr.

Can't wait to get started!

Reality TV Personality Renee Simlak Saw The Reality Of Raising Much Needed Funds For Emergency Pet Care....

 Zach Callison and his dad Ed meet a new friend.  Zach's wearing a cool dogtag designed by my pal Kate Mesta(:

Cynthia Basinet and Maggie.

Salman Sajid of Chrome Canine and friends.

Reality Personality Juan Barbieri joins his friend Renee Simlak for a picture.

Through her Ashley Hope Fund,  Reality Personality Renee Simlak, above with child actor Zach Callison and a cute canine friend is on a mission to raise funds to help financially challenged pet owners pay for costly unexpected pet surgeries and healthcare. When Renee lost her own beloved pet cat Samantha Ashley she discovered the pet insurance she had didn't come through and she was saddled with over $13,000 in medical fees.  She never wants another pet owner to go through what she did and formed the Ashley Hope fund based on her cats' middle names - her surviving cat is Alexandrea Hope.  Donations can be made to the Ashley Hope Foundation, c/o Best Friends Animal Society, 5001 Angel Canyon Road, Kanab, Utah 84741-5000.  Please call 435-644-2001 ext. 4801 for more info.  You can also visit http://www.reneesimlak.com/ .   The event was held at the very cool Bark N Bitches on Fairfax.  Sponsors included http://www.otisandlucy.com/ , http://www.chromecanine.com/, http://www.shortysgourmettreats.esty.com/ (owner Elizabeth Lora has a booth every Saturday at the terrific Calabassas Farmer's Market) and Madalyn's Cupcakes.  Great job Renee!   HH(: