Snoods - Yea or Nay?

Friends, let's cut to the chase.  What do you think of the snood?

As my 1944 Outfit Project draws to a close, and with our photo shoot tentatively scheduled for Thursday (yes, Thanksgiving) morning -- where my cousin will be channeling Maureen O'Hara in Miracle on 34th Street -- I've been busy trying to assemble Cathy's period look on a dime.

I think you've already seen my muff, and why does that sound dirty?  The consensus seems to be that this little $3 hand warmer is shaved rabbit, or shaved something -- real fur.



My original intention had been to make my own shoulder pads for the coat, but I was up at Daytona Trim on 39th Street yesterday, and they had an entire canvas rolling cart full of these molded pads for just $1 a pair.  They're not covered -- I'll likely do that myself with muslin -- but they're huge.  To get the effect I'm going for, I'll be putting a pair in each shoulder!



I also picked up a yard and a half of crepe-backed satin for lining at Chic Fabrics.  I was originally going to use Bemberg rayon, but it didn't look heavy enough plus that's kind of fancy, don't you think?  I like the look of the satin better, it's cheap, doesn't wrinkle easily, and I think the weight will enhance the drape of the coat.



Then there was the question of hats/hair.  The Forties had a very particular look and I wasn't sure how to recreate it.  I looked at hats at the flea market, but the colors were all wrong (I needed brown or a muted green), or the shape, or the price.  I was hoping to find something like this, but no such luck.

So on my way home from the fabric store yesterday, I passed one of those ginormous beauty supply/wig/hair extension stores one often finds in New York City, Beauty 35, and I poked my head in to see what kind of accessories they might offer.  Friends, Lady Luck has smiled on me once again: I found a wide assortment of snoods -- just $1.99 each!  I bought two: one brown, one burgundy.

I experimented with them, and I must get your opinion: both of Cathy in a snood and of snoods in general.  To me, this type of hair covering treads dangerously into Orthodox Jewish territory.  (I have two orthodox first cousins -- daughters of Aunt Florence with the aqua toilet that looks like a Pintastic pin dispenser -- so it's a look I know well.)

OK, brace yourself:

1) With the bangs, I am a dead ringer for my cousin Ellen (who no longer goes by the name Ellen, of course).



2) This is a combination of Cathy's new hairdo, with Cathy's old hairdo in the snood.  Rest assured, she'll be clean-shaven and won't have swim goggle imprints around her eyes.  (Flower courtesy of Beauty 35 @ $1.)



3) Then last night I had an epiphany.  Some of the most famous Forties sirens were blondes.  I combined my vintage Eva Gabor wig (I didn't tell you about that $5 eBay purchase) with my Peter and the Parrot blonde wig in the snood, and came up with this:





Friends, Michael likes the blonde!

Anyway, back to today's topic.  I'm too lazy to delve deeply into the history of snoods, which have apparently been around since Medieval times, but you can read more about them at the Adore Cherie blog, where you can also catch a photo of Casey looking a little Amish if you ask me.  Snoods were popular during World War II and then fell out of fashion, though they've seen a resurgence in popularity among the vintage-loving crowd.

Are snoods simply too costumey for today, in your opinion?   Have you ever worn one?  Do they make you want to too say One ringy dingy and snort through your nose?

In short: Snoods, yea or nay?  

(....and which Cathy hairstyle, please)

Cathy's New Hairdo -- Yea or Nay?

Friends, I believe, when choosing between two paths, always to choose the one that really excites you in the moment.  Hence, yesterday, I put aside my two yards of polka dot poly charmeuse (more about that later) and made a beeline for Wigs & Plus at 152 West 32nd St.  Kind of has a nice ring to it, don't you think, Wigs & Plus? 

The consensus, building over many, many months, was that Cathy needed a new hairdo: something softer, longer, and in a somewhat lighter shade.  But she couldn't lose her essential Cathy-ness.  It was a very difficult challenge, perhaps equal to sewing a poly charmeuse blouse.  No, definitely harder.

You, beloved readers, have been more than generous.  Laura offered to send me a red wig she has tucked away somewhere.  Sadly, red is the one color that makes Cathy's rosacea "pop" in photos.  Semi-retired wig stylist Richard suggested something slightly tousled, with more volume.  Sandy was even kind enough to send me a link to this beautiful portrait of sultry Gina Lollabrigida. 



From among the hundreds of wigs at Wigs & Plus, I found one I thought had possibilities.   Cathy and I took some test shots and I'd like to share them with you.  No makeup here, just a little lipstick, faux fur, and a lot of attitude.  Very spontaneous.  

Before:



After:







Yes?  No?  Maybe?

By the way, for those who wish to emulate Cathy's new look, it's Soul Tress "Perry," designed by James Lee (fancy!), and has copper highlights.    

Meanwhile, in poly-charmeuse-blouse land, I'm having second thoughts.  I fear the charmeuse is too heavy and, frankly, too cheap looking for the 1944 outfit project.  I especially don't like the way darts and tucks photograph in charmeuse.  Then again, most of it will be hidden under a jumper.



I may follow Stashdragon's advice, put it aside and opt for a more somber, historically accurate solid in a natural fiber rather than synthetic.  We'll see.

But back to synthetic hair.

In your opinion, does Cathy's hair conjure up any specific period or person more than others?  Ava Gardner?  Loretta Young?  Gladys Kravitz from Bewitched?

It does give off a somewhat late Fifties/early Sixties vibe to me.  Not sure how it will work with earlier periods, but hey, there's always hats, turbans, and snoods!

Cathy's new hairdo -- yea or nay?

More Cathy wig portraits below.

Toy Sewing Machines for Children -- Yea or Nay?

Friends, I have no children of my own, nor do I have anyone else's.  I do wonder, however, what it might be like to teach a small child to sew, how young is too young and, related to this, what kind of sewing machine to start a child on.

Many people opt to purchase a toy sewing machine, while others choose an adult machine, perhaps one with a hand crank, or a regular electric machine, to be used only under supervision.

Toy sewing machines have been around nearly as long as sewing machines.  They were usually powered by hand, and could produce a respectable chainstitch.



The evolution of the toy sewing machine mirrors that of adult machines, particularly in the way sewing machines became increasingly gendered (female), and marketed to specific demographic groups (college co-ed on the go, young homemaker, etc.).

Early toy sewing machines looked gender neutral and often were designed to look like miniature versions of adult machines.









Over time, hand cranks gave way to battery-operated, and occasionally even electric, foot pedals.  Of course, even when the look was strictly utilitarian, these were primarily intended as toys for girls.  But they were sturdy metal machines and they worked.







Just like adult sewing machines, with the introduction of plastic in the Sixties, toy sewing machines got flimsy and increasingly shoddy.  Reading some of the feedback for the toy machines for sale today on Amazon, one wonders why anyone bothers buying one.  They sound more like a punishment than a creative plaything.

To make matters worse, today's toy sewing machines all seem to come from the same cartoon kingdom of unicorns, fairy princesses, and Japanese anime.  Notice a trend here?

"Shake Lights and Music"???

What child over the age of two would want to sew on something like that -- or is this an accurate reflection of little girls' tastes?  Don't any girls prefer yellow...or, heaven forbid, blue?  And how about the little boys?

In your opinion, if a child -- and I'm not talking about an infant or toddler -- shows an interest in sewing, would she, or he, do better with a real sewing machine on which they could actually make something?  If electricity is an issue, why not a vintage hand-crank machine?  A decent vintage machine won't cost much more than a shoddy plastic toy, and is less likely to be tossed in the trash when it falls apart or when the child hurls it against the wall out of frustration.

In closing, readers, both with children and without, can a cheap toy sewing machine have value, in your opinion, or is it better that the child, under supervision, use a real sewing machine?

Did you have a toy sewing machine growing up?

Toy sewing machines for children -- yea or nay?

Photo courtesy of Craftastica.

Doing Alterations for Others - Yea or Nay?

Like many home sewers, I'm not into altering other people's clothes.  Heck, I don't even like to alter my own!  (Though, ironically, that's the original reason I bought a sewing machine in 2009 -- to shorten some thrift store jeans -- and look what happened.)

I find it much harder to alter ready-to-wear than just make something from scratch and I hate taking things apart when I'm not really sure how they were put together in the first place.

Well, lo and behold, I find myself needing to alter something for somebody.  Our friend Stephanie, who happens to be directing Michael's show, asked if I wouldn't mind taking in a skirt for her, and, since I'm extremely fond of Stephanie, I said yes.

 
Stephanie, who is an amazing dancer/singer/actress, is also an extremely generous person.  She was in Legally Blonde: The Musical on Broadway a few years back, and we got to see the show twice and get a backstage tour.  There I was, front and center on the Palace stage, just like Judy had been -- albeit in an empty theater.

It felt so right....  But I digress.

It's a very simple gathered skirt with a wide waistband and a back zipper.  It's from Zara, and is made of this really cool fabric that looks like a photograph of flowers, all done in acid tones.   Her mother got it for her when she came to visit and Stephanie hasn't been able to wear it because she has a 26" waist and the skirt is a 28-29" (it has a little stretch in it).  Cute, no?







I thought I'd just open up the back, cut off an inch on either side, and then close it back up, most likely adding a new zipper.   There are also two mirror-image side seams, but the skirt has pockets, and I didn't want to have to fiddle with those.



What do you think, readers?  I'm going to have to open up the waistband, right?  I mean, I can't rightly slice out 2" of width -- and the zipper -- with the waistband finished, could I?  I fear that would look crappy.





I do think this will be an interesting little project that shouldn't take more than a few hours tops and you know how poor most performers are these days.  I don't think I'll end up hating Stephanie and/or the skirt.  But I certainly don't want to set a potentially dangerous precedent.  I'm not a tailor, plus I've already had enough headaches lately making things for other people, as you well know.

Also, do you think this skirt is too spring-like for fall?  Stephanie wasn't sure and I'm on the fence.  Does it read flowers at first glance or does it look more abstract?

Look at how cheaply this skirt is hemmed -- they use some kind of fishing wire-type filament to do it.   I've seen that in pants from H&M.



Anyway, that's today's chore (one of a few).

In closing, friends, I must ask:  Do you do alterations for others?  Do you resent being asked?  Are you able to stand up for yourself and say, Bring that to your tailor and don't waste my time! -- though not necessarily in those words?

Will you take on these kinds of tasks, but only for money? 

I know some people get asked to do this all the time (for free) but I rarely have.  What's the kindest way to say fuggitaboutit!?

Doing alterations for others -- yea or nay?

Jump in!

The "Mermaid" gown - oui ou non?

Greeting, friends!  We're in rest mode here at MPB this weekend -- and cleaning mode.  As you might imagine, after a visit from Cathy, the place is an absolute mess, with the living room looking like backstage at "La Cage Aux Folles."

But just because we're resting doesn't mean we're not planning.  Look what I just picked up on Etsy!



The seller is in Canada, so it should definitely get here by Christmas.  Of course, what interests me is Version 1, the red mermaid gown on the left.  What do you think?

Here's a similar gown, a genuine vintage Vogue pattern. 



And here's model Lisa Fonssagrives in a famous Irving Penn photo:



To be honest, I didn't even know what this silhouette was called until I did a little online research.  I found a whole website devoted to the mermaid gown, with lots of wonderful pics.

Remember that I Love Lucy episode where Lucy thinks Ricky is paying too much attention to her cousin Diana (played by a very young Barbara Eden), so Lucy dolls herself to look like Jayne Mansfield to win him back?  Sure enough, she wears a mermaid gown (and I think the joke was that she couldn't sit down in it); it was definitely THE va va voom look of the period.   It's basically just a long sheath with a big flounce at the bottom, but it was the sexiest silhouette of the Fifties, and it didn't last much beyond it.

Here's Jayne (getting married) in one, and Marilyn in another:





Too many curves and you risk riding this look right off the road, do you know what I mean?

Spanish couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga designed quite a few mermaid-style gowns, many of which show a strong Flamenco dance costume influence.







The mermaid gown came back in the Eighties, primarily as bridal wear, and it hasn't really gone away, though it lost the poofy sleeves.









With the mania for old-time red carpet glamour today, it's no surprise that the mermaid gown is popular again.

Here's Nicole Kidman at the Grammys, looking a little "meh" if you ask me:



Rihanna's could use an underlining, but I'm old fashioned that way.



Fashion-forward friends, what do you think?  Is the mermaid gown just plain tacky, a parody of Fifties Hollywood cheesecake, and simply too over-the-top costume-y?

Do you think someone like my demure cousin could make this work without looking like a stripper?



Would you ever be caught dead -- or alive -- in this silhouette?  Have you ever?

The mermaid gown -- oui ou non? (yea or nay)