Leah Models the BurdaStyle Halter Dress!

At long last, readers, my BurdaStyle sew-along halter dress photo shoot!  If it seems to you like I've been working on this dress for, like, forever, imagine what if feels like to me. 

This shoot, my first without my cousin Cathy, is bound to invite comparisons between her and Leah.  Please remember that Leah is not a professional model like Cathy, though I think she acquits herself quite nicely. 

Of course, while Cathy requires the merest dusting of powder to look picture-perfect, we had to literally spackle poor Leah with heavy cream foundation to get the results you'll see here.  (It's so important to take care of your skin, readers, and that means never going to sleep in your pancake.  Learn from Leah's errors.)



I don't think Leah knew what she was getting herself into when she agreed to participate in this project: the endless fittings, the drama of disaster averted, or being forced to parade around town in opera-length gloves carrying heavy, actually packed vintage luggage (I wanted her to feel the role, so I used bricks).  Modeling is not for the timid.



Without further delay, the photo shoot.

As always, to see these photos full-size, please click on any image and then, in Picasa, choose "View All" in the upper left hand corner, and "Slideshow."   



Seriously, how adorable is Leah -- and how about that dress on her?

Enjoy!

PS - You can read my final sew-along post over at BurdaStyle here.

Cathy models the strapless 50's cocktail dress!

Friends, at long last, the cocktail dress photo shoot.

I know there was some drama involved in this project and undeniable differences of opinion with many of you, beloved readers, but I like to think that, in the end, it only brought us closer. 

As always, my talented cousin proved herself a true pro, handling yards of tulle, a boned bodice, and multiple layers of crinoline with aplomb, and even submitting to the indignities of a Maidenform "Control It!" Waistnipper brief.  The summer evening couldn't have been more lovely, gentle breezes blowing through Cathy's soft hair and carrying her tulle wrap aloft.  It was all very dreamlike.

I hope you'll enjoy this slideshow, which includes a special guest appearance from my wonderful photographer, Michael, as well as a number of other unexpected cameos.

As always, to see these photos full-size, please click on any image and in Picasa, choose the album name, and then, in the upper left hand corner, "Slideshow."



I'll admit that I wasn't quite sure athletic Cathy could pull off the strapless look, but I think she does this dress justice, don't you?

Is there a strapless cocktail dress in your future?  

Have a great day, everybody!

P.S.  Remember how it all started?

The Celebrity Pitch

Readers, many volumes have been written about advertising and its role as lubricant in our (rapidly rusting) consumer culture.  But after reading the many excellent comments to yesterday's post about models, I wanted to talk more about it. 

Reader Some Girl made a great point, that the message behind much of today's fashion advertising is "People who are this perfect wear our brand" as opposed to, by wearing such-and-such a brand (or label) you will look more whatever -- beautiful, alluring, sophisticated, etc.

I mean, how sophisticated can anybody look in their underwear?

The celebrity ad seems to operate in both realms.  We want to buy Lux soap flakes (up top) because Jane Wyman uses them, and because by using them we'll end up looking more like Jane Wyman.  (Wait -- am I the only one who still wants to look more like Jane Wyman?)

Consider this contemporary Louis Vuitton ad campaign, which I'm guessing most of you are familiar with.

That's Mikhail Gorbachev, the last head of state of the former USSR, and -- ahem -- not exactly a fashion plate.  Why on earth would anyone care what kind of luggage he uses?  Well, apparently whoever designed the ad campaign believes someone in their target market does care.

Here's another in the series.  Obviously, women without shoes are serious women, who have more important things to worry about.  Which is not to take anything away from Angelina Jolie -- a UN Goodwill Ambassador after all -- and what should she be carrying, a recycled burlap tote?

In the highly competitive luxury goods market, who knows what works and what won't?  When I was growing up, this Blackglama mink ad campaign was in full swing and I loved following them to see which old-time star would show up next. 

I wonder how many coats Joan Crawford really moved...but I digress.

Readers, are you seduced by celebrities in ads?  Are you able to see beyond the movie star and focus on what is being advertised?

On a somewhat related note, do ads featuring scantily clad, dissipated teenagers make you want to head off to the mall to buy jeans, gulp down a few Excedrin -- or both?

As in so many areas of life today, we seem to be throwing everything at the wall in hope that something will stick.  Nobody seems to know what works.

I had a sort of epiphany yesterday while tut-tutting over that Banana Republic "Inspired by Mad Men" photo: It doesn't matter what I think.  Those clothes are not supposed to work for me.



Their target market is likely decades younger, someone with no living memory of the styles, to whom this stuff looks fresh and edgy, not stale and derivative.

As so many have mentioned, the Sixties revisited the Twenties, the Seventies the Forties, and so on.  A lot of those styles were lifted piecemeal, without much reinterpretation.  Remember these record albums?

So what's wrong with a little early Sixties in the -- what are we in again, the teens?

Friends, I could talk about advertising all day, but I really must get a move on.

If you were advertising something like, say, Louis Vuitton luggage how would you sell it?

Is associating a bag with a former head of state a cynical ploy, a brilliant strategy, or both?

Why do we still fall for this stuff?  (Note to self: shower, change underwear, smile.)

Models Then and Models Now

Friends, I'm back and ready to take on the world.  Of modeling.

Suzy Parker.  Dovima.  Jean Patchett.  Lisa Fonssagrives.

These are just a few of the most famous models of the 1950s and early 60s.  Like today's models, they were beautiful.  They were young.  And they were ballerina-skinny.





In those days, models modeled and that's about it.  They didn't star in reality shows (though Suzy Parker did have a role in The Best of Everything and a few other films) and they weren't seen much outside of magazine layouts and ads.  But they were recognizable and certainly embodied a standard of beauty and glamour (maybe more the latter than the former) few non-models could ever match.

Readers, what's different about models then and now?  Why do so many people focus on models today and critique their (genetically) tall, thin bodies? 



Haven't models always merely represented a highly art-directed ideal, human clothes hangers that showed off a dress to its best effect?



When I was looking at photos of models then and models now, the greatest difference I noticed was the amount of skin models are expected to display today.  Skimpy underwear, bikinis, nude shots -- almost nothing is left to the imagination.

Though Fifties models appeared in swimsuits, these tended to be modest one-piece numbers, as was the style back then, and the images were never sexually provocative, but rather, wholesome.

Direct sexuality was the stuff of pin-ups and other "adult" material (think Betty Page).  Today there's very little difference, aesthetically.  And this isn't just true of female models -- men are also expected to pose provocatively in underwear or nothing at all.

In the Fifties, women's clothes may have been restrictive and demanded corsets and cinchers, but the models bodies were covered.  Nudity was rare.



It's as if today, when so much of fashion is standardized, we're more interested in the hanger than the clothes.

Wise readers, your thoughts.

Just so we're on the same page, I'm operating under the assumptions that 1) models are more visible today, thanks to television and the Internet; 2) modeling itself is much more mainstream and often seen as a springboard to an acting or business career; 3) models -- their weight and how they are represented -- are more a focus of women than they were in generations past.  You may or may not agree with these.

Does the increase in nudity reflect our more body-conscious, sexually liberated times?  Does the constant exposure to models' (photoshopped always) bodies create more self-image problems for women than the more covered-up, highly stylized models of generations ago?

I'll have more to say about this later in the week, but why do these Banana Republic ads look like children playing dress-up...



...compared to the real thing?





Is it the makeup, or is it a life spent wearing corsets, heels, and gloves, that make the original models look mature and comfortable and the 2011 models look synthetic, derivative, and awkward?

Jump in!

Peter models the funky-cuffed summer shirt!

Readers, the shirt is finished and yesterday, with Michael's able assistance, I got to play fashion model!



I am now thinking the lavender cotton shirt fabric, which I had originally identified as lawn, is in fact voile.  Or gauze.  Or something.  As you can see in the photos, it's slightly transparent, loosely woven, and very soft.  In fact, the softness and loose weave resulted in the one (minor) disappointment in the shirt construction.



Not wanting to deal with flat-felled seams on such soft fabric, I'd planned to stitch the sleeves on, serge the seam allowance, and then stitch the seam allowance down to make a mock flat-felled seam.  However, even with the shirt open and flat (before I'd stitched the sleeve and torso closed), I was unable to stitch down the seam allowance without puckering -- it's that stretchy and soft.  This wasn't a tension issue, though it caused some!

I completed one side, and then ripped it out (gently); traces of which are slightly visible.  Has this ever happened to you?



Anyway, with a shirt this casual and summery, it's fine, and it's not like I'm going to be hurling baseballs in it or anything.  The shoulder seam is perfectly secure.



Here are a few more construction details.  You can view the whole folder of construction pics here.

I interfaced the collar stand with knit weft interfacing on just the outer layer.  For the collar itself I used an additional layer of my fashion fabric (I was short on interfacing).  This is one of my better collar stands.







I topstitched all the way around the stand; sometimes I skip that step.  With the exception of the buttonholes, I sewed the shirt entirely on my Featherweight, using a #9 needle.  Anything larger would occasionally snag the fabric.



I finished the sleeves and side seams with French seams, stitching at 2/8" wrong sides together, trimming down to 1/8 inch, pressing, and then stitching right sides together at roughly 3/8".  I like the result -- clean.



The buttonholes, which I made on my 15-91 with my buttonholer attachment, aren't gorgeous.  I chose not to interface the front left button placket and it could have used a little more heft for prettier buttonholes.   Do you see how the fabric puckers along the width of the placket?  Still, they're stable and not particularly noticeable.   (I really should clip those stray threads...)



And that's it.

Here's a little slide show of me modeling the shirt.  No sailors, I'm afraid.

As always, to see these photos full-size, please click on any image.  In Picasa, click on the title of the folder, and then in the left hand corner, "Slideshow."



Happy Sunday, everybody -- and to all your fathers out there, Happy Father's Day!

Cathy models the 40's midriff or "Sweetheart of the Navy!"

Friends, on this Memorial Day, I am thrilled to be featuring Cathy's latest photo shoot, which combines a 1940's midriff ensemble and our men in uniform.

Please join me as Cathy supports the troops the best way she knows how -- and forgive her.

As always, to see these photos full-size, please click on any image and then, in Picasa, choose "View All" in the upper left hand corner, and "Slideshow." 



Can Cathy still pull off a midriff (figuratively speaking)?  I hope so!

Have a great day, everybody!

So Long, Sew-Along -- Peter & Michael's White Jeans Photo Shoot!

Readers, I am sad to report that the MPB Jeans Sew-Along Express has arrived at its destination.  It's been a great ride, but it's time to deboard (which is a real word, believe it or not) so I can clean the bathrooms.

Hey!  I was alerted to this recent New York Magazine article by a well-informed, fashion-forward reader.  I do try to stay on-trend wherever possible and can you believe those prices?

Michael and I had some time to spare yesterday so, with the aid of a trusty tripod, we created a brief photo montage.  Nothing Cathy-quality here, I'm afraid -- we're just amateurs -- but the wardrobes are my creation and it felt good to don summer clothes, even in a drizzle.

Of course, our collective jeans journey continues in our Flickr group, where a slow trickle of near-finished projects is underway.  Sew-Alongers, I hope you'll light the proverbial fire under your you-know-whats in the days ahead.  None of us needs another UFO in the closet.

Will we sew-along together again here at MPB?  Most likely.  I'll keep you posted.

Enjoy, everybody, and thank you for coming along!

(As always, to see these photos full-size, please click on any image and then, in Picasa, choose "View All" in the upper left hand corner, and "Slideshow." )

Cathy on the town in her taffeta dress!

Beloved readers and Cathy fans, what can I tell you about last night's revelries you haven't already read on "Page Six"?

What a party, what a dress, what a girl!
Cathy, ever the professional, put a brave face on a challenging situation: there were torrential downpours all day yesterday and Cathy's dress was extremely prone to water stains, as you already know.  Nonetheless, she made it work, as she always does.

Below is her latest photoshoot and I do hope you enjoy it.  Does a major film star -- a living one -- make an appearance?   You'll have to watch and find out.

As always, to see these photos full-size, please click on any image and then, in Picasa, choose "View All" in the upper left hand corner, and "Slideshow."



Cathy can't wait to wear her taffeta cocktail dress again in better weather, and has asked me to solicit party invitations on her behalf.

BTW, she was so touched by your concern about her outfit, she'd like to offer all of you an opportunity to wear it.  The logistics sound complicated but we'll figure something out.

So...how do like the dress?

Enjoy!

Cathy models the Deborah Kerr Dress!

Friends, those of you who have ever had to begin again after a setback know that it's rarely easy.  Now that Cathy has paid her debt to society she's back in New York City and trying to create a life for herself.

What does the future hold for our youngish model?  At the very least a growing wardrobe of cocktail ensembles -- a big plus for a Gotham glamour girl.

Cathy and I had such fun modeling Simplicity 4227 yesterday.  It couldn't have been a lovelier day and Cathy looked as fresh as the morning dew.  A little rusty at first, she quickly loosened up and was back to her old self.

I hope you'll give my cousin Cathy a second chance.  She's so eager to put the past behind her.

As always, to see these photos full-size, please click on any image and then, in Picasa, choose "View All" in the upper left hand corner, and "Slideshow." 



If you have advice for Cathy, please leave it below.

Your kind words of support mean a great deal to her.

Enjoy!

Cathy models the One Pattern Wardrobe!

Friends, the stars were aligned yesterday.  The weather was perfect, Cathy awoke with less eye puffiness than usual, and knee socks were in abundance at my local Duane-Reade drugstore!  (Worn over tights, they cleverly combine chic and warmth.)

I hope you'll agree that Cathy looks fetching in this photoshoot.  Whatever cost incurred to my vision in making these houndstooth mix-n-match separates -- tunic top, hot pants, jacket, and long pants -- it was worth it!

So here it is:



As always, to see these photos full-size, please click on any image and then, in Picasa, choose "View All" in the upper left hand corner, and "Slideshow."

I know this shoot will result in many hundreds of you scouring your local fabric stores for oversized houndstooth.  Before you do, please take a day or two to think about it.  Consider the cost to 1) your eyesight, and 2) your reputation.  Remember: bold prints require a certain something extra that many of us non-models lack.  (Maybe it's chutzpah.)

If in doubt, send pictures to Cathy before wearing.

For those interested in more garment construction photos, you'll find them here.

In closing, refined readers, what do you think?  Cathy vs. the houndstooth: who's wearing whom?

Enjoy!