Wednesday, 16 November 2011

Unisex - The Musical!



Readers, a pre-dawn epiphany:

The loathsome message implicit in every unisex sewing pattern is "we are so into each other, we don't give a damn how we look to the rest of the world."  Am I right? 



The Western shirt pattern below, a late Sixties Butterick, sums up the essential flaw in the unisex concept -- a misbegotten assumption about (heterosexual) intimacy and sartorial similitude -- which proved to be the seed of its destruction. 



Your comments yesterday relating to unisex patterns were telling:

 Yuck!

 One-size-fits-no-one.

 Who wants to look that bad?! 

Are the pattern companies listening?

Here is the primary problem with unisex:  Latest research shows that while 68% of women polled are willing to wear menswear (think boyfriend jeans), only 4% of men are willing to wear womenswear -- only half of whom are not consciously trying to crossdress.

As a result, unisex -- almost without exception -- has meant that men get to wear what they'd wear anyway, and women get to look like Eighties-era lesbians: an observation, not a judgment, progressive readers!







In the early days of unisex, during the dawning of the Age of Aquarius, there were exceptions to the soon-to-be-dominant women-in-menswear look  -- cringe-worthy exceptions.







Unisex was undoubtedly the reflection of a more idealistic time, when pattern companies naively thought that by dressing men and women alike, the sexes would be more equal.  I think you'll agree that the effort resulted in little more than a series of fashion don'ts.





While unisex lives on today, primarily in polyfleece hoodies, scrubs, and Gitmo detention camp-inspired pajama bottoms, one word you will never, ever hear is the oxymoronic unisexy.

After extensive research, I could come up with only two remotely titillating unisex patterns, both resembling Seventies-era Benson & Hedges ads.




 
If I had to distill the essence of unisex and turn it into a movie musical, I could do no better than the Burt Bacharach-Hal David 1973 snooze-fest Lost Horizon, produced by Ross Hunter, the man who gave us not only Magnificent Obsession and Madame X, but also Pillow Talk!


Here one finds songs oozing in unisex values, like the rousing "Living Together, Growing Together":

Living together, growing together, just being together
That's how it starts; Three loving hearts 

All pulling together, working together, just building together
That makes you strong
If things go wrong, we'll still get along somehow
Living and growing....together


Watch it (with Portuguese subtitles!) here.

There's also the heartwarming "The World Is a Circle," which is essentially Do Re Mi performed in the Himalayas by caftan-clad children seemingly on loan from Jim Jones' People's Temple cult.

The world is a circle without a beginning,
And nobody knows where it really ends.
Everything depends on where you
Are in the circle that never begins.
Nobody knows where the circle ends.


It's both profound and banal and very, very unisex, if you ask me.  Confession: I have owned the Lost Horizon album for nearly twenty years and can't stop playing it.

Sing along with me and Liv! (click twice to avoid annoying pop-up)



Friends and fellow travelers, our unisex journey has come to an end.  Is there anything I've missed?

If you have any closing statements to add to this veritable "Ode to Unisex," please feel free to add them below.  I will do my best to pass them along to the appropriate pattern company executive.

Tuesday, 15 November 2011

Chewsday

Chew #17 by John Layman and Rob Guillory
Random Chew page of the week (from Chew #17)

Peter's 1944 Topper Project + COAT QUIZ!



Readers, having recently put the finishing touches on my 1944 misses' jumper -- which evidently stirs up unpleasant young Jane Eyre at Lowood charity school-type memories for a number of you -- I am now ready to get started on the most challenging and exciting of my three 1944 garments, the vintage Butterick topper.

As you may or may not know already, a topper is a woman's short, lightweight coat. This is a tailored garment, and there will be a good deal of hand sewing involved, horsehair interfacing, twill tape, etc.  The coat has welt pockets, but because they are located on a seam, there's none of that complicated pulling one layer through another.







There are also -- saints be praised -- no buttons, which means no bound buttonholes.  So I'm approaching this as sort of a practice tailoring exercise: just enough to be challenging, but not so much as to be discouraging.

You may recall that this is a refashioning project.  My fabric is a vintage wool blanket purchased at the Chelsea flea market.  I wouldn't be surprised if the blanket dated back to the 1940's itself.



While the seller claims to have had the blanket dry cleaned, it retains a -- how shall I put this? -- distinct aroma of basement, with some damp attic top notes; halfway between a moldy Featherweight carrying case and a washing machine full of old cardigans.  I think the damp weather may be contributing as well.  It wasn't apparent when I purchased it, but steaming seems to have restored its original smell.  I am hoping this will dissipate over time.

Butterick 2969 is an unprinted pattern and, right out of the envelope, the pieces resembled those wadded-up Kleenex one occasionally finds at the bottom of pants pockets after doing the laundry.  Thankfully, with a little careful dry ironing, I was able to bring the pattern back to life. 



I needed to bring the blanket back to life as well.  It measures 66" x 82" and is not without its cosmetic flaws, which I proceeded to outline in white chalk so I could cut around them.  Nothing major -- just some small tears, areas of excessive wear, light stains and discoloration.  







For topstitching, I'll be using beige cotton thread, which adds some much-needed freshness to the look of the fabric.  The wool is relatively easy to work with so far, though quite thick.





Friends, I had planned today to post a few similar vintage Forties women's coat patterns available on Etsy, and there are quite a few, like this one:


But as I was looking through coat patterns, I noticed a very odd trend.  I have decided to let you identify just what this trend is, in the form of a quiz.

1) What is wrong with distinctive about the following coat patterns?

2) What do these patterns suggest about a) fashion trends, b) home sewing, c) pattern companies, d) anything else you can think of?







Readers, I must start my day.  I hope you will take a moment to respond to today's quiz, as well as to share your best time-tested methods of removing dank smells from old wool.  You've been so helpful in the past with my old luggage (now sold, thankfully) and Featherweight case!

Have a sweet-scented day, everybody!

Sunday, 13 November 2011

SNEAK PREVIEW - The 1944 jumper!



Friends, at long last, I have finished the jumper...I think.  This garment was a major pain, primarily because the fabric is unstable, and let's face it, I'm not terribly stable myself.  It's also a plaid.

Here it is with the blouse, but before hemming.  The pattern is Hollywood 1321.



The jumper's not perfect but it's not bad either and Cathy will definitely fill it out better than I do.  That center pleat has been giving me agita however; it doesn't seem to want to hang exactly the way I press it.  How to do I capture the way it hangs so that I can press it correctly?  Pins?  I may need Michael to help me since if you bend to pin with the garment on, the pleat opens.   Or should I just give up on a sharp pleat entirely?  Are you supposed to tack the underpart of the pleat anywhere?  

Readers, do you ever reach that a point in a project when you just have to say, Enough!?  I'm at the point now.  I need to put this one away for a while and revisit it later in the week.  In the meantime I have a vintage Butterick coat to make out of an old wool blanket.

Cross your fingers.





Happy Sunday, everybody!

Saturday, 12 November 2011

The Glamour Never Stops + New Patterns!


As if this week didn't have enough excitement, I was thrilled to attend the BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook book launch event on Thursday night and, trust me, that sombrero was their idea and don't even mention the scissors.

I hope to write more about the Burda book in the future because it looks terrific, despite my not having contributed a project for it.  Cat-loving, peanut-butter-and-honey-sandwich-eating Gertie is in the book, however, and wouldn't you know she was at the book launch too, accompanied by handsome, hirsute husband Jeff.  I treated her with my usual warmth, overlooking the sharp comment she'd left on my blog that very day (Thursday) about men's patterns.  Gertie looked lovely in a lustrous silk and cotton blend polka-dotted dress and coordinating pink cardigan.

She really needs to start sewing for Jeff, however, because he looks -- don't hate me -- almost bland in comparison to her.  If she begs I might just send a few men's patterns her way (since in her opinion there's such an abundance of them out there).  Wait: maybe I should sew something for Jeff...we can do a photo shoot!

But let's move on.

I'm just back from the Chelsea flea market, where one of the sellers had two boxes full of vintage Sixties and Seventies patterns, many in Cathy's size or the size above.  This is not my favorite period, though initially I thought I'd just buy the whole lot.  After digging through them, however, I realized that they were really not all that, and instead chose a few I liked and left the rest.  A buck apiece.

Who doesn't love an early-Seventies take on the turban.  So Biba.



I think this 1969-ish Vogue Americana would be perfect for Dr. Lorna Gallo, the character I play in Noah's Very Unusual Insight.  The dropped waistline is very flattering on a certain kind of woman -- flat-chested, no hips -- and Dr. Lorna is just that kind.  Time to dig out the poly crepe!



This simple suit from 1967 is fetching in that matchy-matchy Jackie O way I love.  Perfect for cocktails in town.



Finally, I chose these two McCall's.   On the left is a pattern for a ruffled "fill-in" (akin to a halter top), ascot, and matching bib and cuffs.  On the right, a stretch jumpsuit, which is right for so many occasions.  I find the idea of a ruffled "fill-in" mildly hilarious, and I would like a matching bib and cuffs for myself, frankly.



Friends, that's it.  I am going to finish my 1944 jumper today come hell or high water.   I'm nearly done with the skirt, which I then have to attach to the top.  How does one get into a jumper, btw?



Here's a question:  you have to match two pieces of plaid, both of which are folded under approximately 7 inches.  So the seam (which will form the center of a skirt with a box pleat) is going to have a 7" seam allowance.  What is the best way to match the plaid?  I actually used tape so the layers wouldn't shift under my sewing machine, but it didn't feel like the ideal technique.  I guess in an ideal world I'd have hand-basted.  Any other ideas?

Finally, do you think partners of glamorous people have a duty to be glamorous too?  Whatever happened to the days of Ty and Lana?


Have a great weekend, everybody!

Friday, 11 November 2011

Eee-O 11/11/11

He's gotta be he.
As someone who's unemployed and has been part of the 99 Percent for a long-ass time, Sammy Davis Jr.'s "Eee-O Eleven" from the original Ocean's Eleven is like the story of my life ("I nearly had me that chauffeur/And that block-long limousine/Eee-O Eleven...").

What does that song title mean? Some people think the phrase is a reference to the game of craps. Hey, Sammy Cahn and Jimmy Van Heusen, the lyricists behind "Eee-O Eleven," would know. Too bad they're dead. Reeeal dead.

"Vogue Patterns" Winner + SHOULD I HAVE BOUGHT THIS?



Readers, I am delighted to announce the winner of the Dec 2011/Jan 2012 issue of Vogue Patterns with my vintage sewing machine article in it. 

She's a motorcycle-riding fiber artist from the Lone Star State, please put you hands together for RatherBeSewing! 

RatherBeSewing, be sure to email me (peterlappinnyc at gmail dot com) with your mailing address and I'll get the magazine off to you ASAP.  Congratulations!

In other news, friends, occasionally while trolling the sewing machine listings on eBay, I come across something that strikes me as simultaneously desirable and repellent.  I saw this lamp listed earlier in the week and I couldn't decide whether it was really cool or ugly as all get out.  In the end, I decided to let it go.



But I just discovered that it's been relisted (no one bid the first time, do you believe it?).  Anyone who's interested has until November 16 to bid!

Friends, I must ask you -- what do you think of this lamp?   Is it a must-have for any sewing fanatic, or does it have "Daily Ditch" written all over it?

I can't decide.    Maybe with a slightly larger shade....?

It's called a "sewing machine replica," but as far as I can tell, that's a real sewing machine under there.  I mean, what kind of replica would have both a bobbin winder and a feed dog drop lever?

In closing, are you the type of person who buys sewing-related kitsch: pencil sharpeners, clocks, things like that?  At MPB, we don't judge, so fess up.


Happy Friday, everybody!